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On the Pallium

Chapter IV.--Change Not Always Improvement.

Why, now, if the Roman fashion is (social) salvation to every one, are you nevertheless Greek to a degree, even in points not honourable? Or else, if it is not so, whence in the world is it that provinces which have had a better training, provinces which nature adapted rather for surmounting by hard struggling the difficulties of the soil, derive the pursuits of the wrestling-ground--pursuits which fall into a sad old age ¹ and labour in vain--and the unction with mud, ² and the rolling in sand, and the dry dietary? Whence comes it that some of our Numidians, with their long locks made longer by horsetail plumes, learn to bid the barber shave their skin close, and to exempt their crown alone from the knife? Whence comes it that men shaggy and hirsute learn to teach the resin ³ to feed on their arms with such rapacity, the tweezers to weed their chin so thievishly? A prodigy it is, that all this should be done without the Mantle! To the Mantle appertains this whole Asiatic practice! What hast thou, Libya, and thou, Europe, to do with athletic refinements, which thou knowest not how to dress? For, in sooth, what kind of thing is it to practise Greekish depilation more than Greekish attire?

The transfer of dress approximates to culpability just in so far as it is not custom, but nature, which suffers the change. There is a wide enough difference between the honour due to time, and religion. Let Custom show fidelity to Time, Nature to God. To Nature, accordingly, the Larissaean hero ⁴ gave a shock by turning into a virgin; he who had been reared on the marrows of wild beasts (whence, too, was derived the composition of his name, because he had been a stranger with his lips to the maternal breast ⁵ ); he who had been reared by a rocky and wood-haunting and monstrous trainer ⁶ in a stony school. You would bear patiently, if it were in a boy's case, his mother's solicitude; but he at all events was already be-haired, he at all events had already secretly given proof of his manhood to some one, ⁷ when he consents to wear the flowing stole, ⁸ to dress his hair, to cultivate his skin, to consult the mirror, to bedizen his neck; effeminated even as to his ear by boring, whereof his bust at Sigeum still retains the trace. Plainly afterwards he turned soldier: for necessity restored him his sex. The clarion had sounded of battle: nor were arms far to seek. "The steel's self," says (Homer), "attracteth the hero." ⁹ Else if, after that incentive as well as before, he had persevered in his maidenhood, he might withal have been married! Behold, accordingly, mutation! A monster, I call him,--a double monster: from man to woman; by and by from woman to man: whereas neither ought the truth to have been belied, nor the deception confessed. Each fashion of changing was evil: the one opposed to nature, the other contrary to safety.

Still more disgraceful was the case when lust transfigured a man in his dress, than when some maternal dread did so: and yet adoration is offered by you to me, whom you ought to blush at,--that Clubshaftandhidebearer, who exchanged for womanly attire the whole proud heritage of his name! Such licence was granted to the secret haunts of Lydia, ¹⁰ that Hercules was prostituted in the person of Omphale, and Omphale in that of Hercules. Where were Diomed and his gory mangers? where Busiris and his funereal altars? where Geryon, triply one? The club preferred still to reek with their brains when it was being pestered with unguents! The now veteran (stain of the) Hydra's and of the Centaurs' blood upon the shafts was gradually eradicated by the pumice-stone, familiar to the hair-pin! while voluptuousness insulted over the fact that, after transfixing monsters, they should perchance sew a coronet! No sober woman even, or heroine ¹¹ of any note, would have adventured her shoulders beneath the hide of such a beast, unless after long softening and smoothening down and deodorization (which in Omphale's house, I hope, was effected by balsam and fenugreek-salve: I suppose the mane, too, submitted to the comb) for fear of getting her tender neck imbued with lionly toughness. The yawning mouth stuffed with hair, the jaw-teeth overshadowed amid the forelocks, the whole outraged visage, would have roared had it been able. Nemea, at all events (if the spot has any presiding genius), groaned: for then she looked around, and saw that she had lost her lion. What sort of being the said Hercules was in Omphale's silk, the description of Omphale in Hercules' hide has inferentially depicted.

But, again, he who had formerly rivalled the Tirynthian ¹² --the pugilist Cleomachus--subsequently, at Olympia, after losing by efflux his masculine sex by an incredible mutation--bruised within his skin and without, worthy to be wreathed among the "Fullers" even of Novius, ¹³ and deservedly commemorated by the mimographer Lentulus in his Catinensians--did, of course, not only cover with bracelets the traces left by (the bands of) the cestus, but likewise supplanted the coarse ruggedness of his athlete's cloak with some superfinely wrought tissue.

Of Physco and Sardanapalus I must be silent, whom, but for their eminence in lusts, no one would recognise as kings. But I must be silent, for fear lest even they set up a muttering concerning some of your Caesars, equally lost to shame; for fear lest a mandate have been given to canine ¹⁴ constancy to point to a Caesar impurer than Physco, softer than Sardanapalus, and indeed a second Nero. ¹⁵

Nor less warmly does the force of vainglory also work for the mutation of clothing, even while manhood is preserved. Every affection is a heat: when, however, it is blown to (the flame of) affectation, forthwith, by the blaze of glory, it is an ardour. From this fuel, therefore, you see a great king ¹⁶ --inferior only to his glory--seething. He had conquered the Median race, and was conquered by Median garb. Doffing the triumphal mail, he degraded himself into the captive trousers! The breast dissculptured with scaly bosses, by covering it with a transparent texture he bared; punting still after the work of war, and (as it were) softening, he extinguished it with the ventilating silk! Not sufficiently swelling of spirit was the Macedonian, unless he had likewise found delight in a highly inflated garb: only that philosophers withal (I believe) themselves affect somewhat of that kind; for I hear that there has been (such a thing as) philosophizing in purple. If a philosopher (appears) in purple, why not in gilded slippers ¹⁷ too? For a Tyrian ¹⁸ to be shod in anything but gold, is by no means consonant with Greek habits. Some one will say, "Well, but there was another ¹⁹ who wore silk indeed, and shod himself in brazen sandals." Worthily, indeed, in order that at the bottom of his Bacchantian raiment he might make some tinkling sound, did he walk in cymbals! But if, at that moment, Diogenes had been barking from his tub, he would not (have trodden on him ²⁰ ) with muddy feet--as the Platonic couches testify--but would have carried Empedocles down bodily to the secret recesses of the Cloacinae; ²¹ in order that he who had madly thought himself a celestial being might, as a god, salute first his sisters, ²² and afterwards men. Such garments, therefore, as alienate from nature and modesty, let it be allowed to be just to eye fixedly and point at with the finger and expose to ridicule by a nod. Just so, if a man were to wear a dainty robe trailing on the ground with Menander-like effeminacy, he would hear applied to himself that which the comedian says, "What sort of a cloak is that maniac wasting?" For, now that the contracted brow of censorial vigilance is long since smoothed down, so far as reprehension is concerned, promiscuous usage offers to our gaze freedmen in equestrian garb, branded slaves in that of gentlemen, the notoriously infamous in that of the freeborn, clowns in that of city-folk, buffoons in that of lawyers, rustics in regimentals; the corpse-bearer, the pimp, the gladiator trainer, clothe themselves as you do. Turn, again, to women. You have to behold what Caecina Severus pressed upon the grave attention of the senate--matrons stoleless in public. In fact, the penalty inflicted by the decrees of the augur Lentulus upon any matron who had thus cashiered herself was the same as for fornication; inasmuch as certain matrons had sedulously promoted the disuse of garments which were the evidences and guardians of dignity, as being impediments to the practising of prostitution. But now, in their self-prostitution, in order that they may the more readily be approached, they have abjured stole, and chemise, and bonnet, and cap; yes, and even the very litters and sedans in which they used to be kept in privacy and secrecy even in public. But while one extinguishes her proper adornments, another blazes forth such as are not hers. Look at the street-walkers, the shambles of popular lusts; also at the female self-abusers with their sex; and, if it is better to withdraw your eyes from such shameful spectacles of publicly slaughtered chastity, yet do but look with eyes askance, (and) you will at once see (them to be) matrons! And, while the overseer of brothels airs her swelling silk, and consoles her neck--more impure than her haunt--with necklaces, and inserts in the armlets (which even matrons themselves would, of the guerdons bestowed upon brave men, without hesitation have appropriated) hands privy to all that is shameful, (while) she fits on her impure leg the pure white or pink shoe; why do you not stare at such garbs? or, again, at those which falsely plead religion as the supporter of their novelty? while for the sake of an all-white dress, and the distinction of a fillet, and the privilege of a helmet, some are initiated into (the mysteries of) Ceres; while, on account of an opposite hankering after sombre raiment, and a gloomy woollen covering upon the head, others run mad in Bellona's temple; while the attraction of surrounding themselves with a tunic more broadly striped with purple, and casting over their shoulders a cloak of Galatian scarlet, commends Saturn (to the affections of others). When this Mantle itself, arranged with more rigorous care, and sandals after the Greek model, serve to flatter AEsculapius, ²³ how much more should you then accuse and assail it with your eyes, as being guilty of superstition--albeit superstition simple and unaffected? Certainly, when first it clothes this wisdom ²⁴ which renounces superstitions with all their vanities, then most assuredly is the Mantle, above all the garments in which you array your gods and goddesses, an august robe; and, above all the caps and tufts of your Salii and Flamines, a sacerdotal attire. Lower your eyes, I advise you, (and) reverence the garb, on the one ground, meantime, (without waiting for others,) of being a renouncer of your error.

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De pallio

IV.

[1] Quid nunc, si est Romanitas omni salus, nec honestis tamen modis ad Graios estis? Aut, ni ita est, unde gentium in prouinciis melius exercitis, quas natura agro potius eluctando commodauit, studia palaestrae, male senescentia et cassum laborantia et lutea unctio et puluerea uolutatio, arida saginatio? Vnde apud aliquos Numidas etiam equis caesariatos iuxta cutem tonsor et cultri uertex solus immunis? Vnde apud hirtos et hirsutos tam rapax a culo resina, tam furax a mento uolsella? Prodigium est haec sine pallio fieri. Illius est haec tota res Asiae. Quid tibi Libya, et Europa, cum xysticis munditiis, quas uestire non nosti? Reuera enim quale est Graecatim depilari magis quam amiciri?

[2] Habitum transferre ita demum culpae prope est, si non consuetudo, sed natura mutetur. Sat refert inter honorem temporis et religionem. Det consuetudo fidem tempori, natura deo. Naturam itaque concussit Larissaeus heros in uirginem mutando, ille ferarum medullis educatus (unde et nominis concilium, quandoquidem labiis uacuerat ab uberum gustu), ille apud rupicem et siluicolam et monstrum eruditorem scrupea schola eruditus. Feras, si in puero, matris sollicitudinem patiens; certe iam histriculus, certe iam uirum alicui clanculo functus adhuc sustinet stolam fundere, comam struere, cutem fingere, speculum consulere, collum demulcere, aurem quoque foratu effeminatus, quod illi apud Sigeum strongyla seruat.

Plane postea miles est; necessitas enim reddidit sexum. De proelio sonuerat, nec arma longe. Ipsum, inquit, ferrum uirum attrahit. Ceterum, si post incentiuum quoque puellam perseuerasset, potuit et nubere. Ecce itaque mutatio. Monstrum equidem geminum, de uiro femina, mox de femina uir, quando neque ueritas negari debuisset neque fallacia confiteri. Vterque habitus mutandi malus, alter aduersus naturam, alter contra salutem.

[3] Turpius adhuc libido uirum cultu transfigurauit quam aliqua materna formido. Tametsi adoratur a uobis qui erubescendus est, ille scytalosagittipelliger, qui totam epitheti sui sortem cum muliebri cultu compensauit. Tantum Lydiae clanculariae licuit, ut Hercules in Omphale et Omphale in Hercule prostitueretur. Vbi Diomedes et cruenta praesepia? Vbi Busiris et bustuaria altaria? Vbi Geryon ter unus? Cerebris adhuc eorum claua foetere malebat, cum unguentis offenderetur. Vetus iam Hydrae Centaurorumque sanguis in sagittis pumice spiculi excludebatur, insultante luxuria, ut post monstra transfixa coronam forsitan suerent. Ne sobriae mulieris quidem aut uiraginis alicuius scapulae sub exuuias bestiae tantae introire potuissent, nisi diu mollitas et euigoratas et exodoratas, quod apud Omphalem balsamo aut telino spero factum. Credo et iubas pectinem passas, ne ceruicem eneruem inureret sciria leonina. Hiatus crinibus infarsus, genuini inter antias adumbrati: tota oris contumelia mugiret, si posset. Nemea certe, si quis loci genius, ingemebat: tunc enim se circumspexit leonem perdidisse. Qualis ille Hercules in serico Omphales fuerit, iam Omphale in Herculis scorto designata descripsit.

[4] Sed et qui ante Tirynthium accesserat, pugil Cleomachus, post Olympiae cum incredibili mutatu de masculo fluxisset, intra cutem caesus et ultra, inter Fullones iam Nouianos coronandus meritoque mimographo Lentulo in Catinensibus commemoratus, utique sicut uestigia cestuum uiriis occupauit, ita et endromidis solocem aliqua multicia synthesi extrusit.

[5] Physconem et Sardanapallum tacendum est, qui nisi insignes libidinum, alias reges nemo nosset. Tacendum autem, ne quid et illi de Caesaribus quibusdam uestris obmussitent pariter propudiosis, ne caninae forte constantiae mandatum sit impuriorem Physcone et molliorem Sardanapallo Caesarem designare et quidem Subneronem.

[6] Nec tepidior uis uanae quoque gloriae mutandis induuiis, etiam uiro saluo. Calor est omnis affectus; uerum cum in affectationem flabellatur, iam de incendio gloriae ardor est. Habes igitur ex isto fomite aestuantem magnum regem, sola gloria minorem. Vicerat Medicam gentem, et uictus est Medica ueste. Triumphalem cataphracten amolitus in captiua sarabara decessit; pectus squamarum signaculis disculptum textu perlucido tegendo nudauit, anhelum adhuc ab opere belli, et ut mollius uentilante serico extinxit. Non erat satis animi tumens Macedo, ni illum etiam uestis inflatior delectasset; nisi quod et philosophi, puto, ipsi aliquid eiusmodi affectant.

[7] Audio enim et in purpura philosophatum. Si philosophus in purpura, cur non et in baxa? Tyrium calciari nisi auro minime Graecatum decet. Atquin alius et sericatus et crepidam aeratus incessit. Digne quidem, ut bacchantibus indumentis aliquid subtinniret, cymbalo incessit. Quod si iam tunc locorum Diogenes de dolio latraret, non caenulentis pedibus, ut tori Platonici sciunt, , sed omnino totum Empedoclem in adyta Cloacinarum detulisset, ut qui se caelitem delirarat, sorores prius suas, dehinc homines deus salutaret.

[8] Tales igitur habitus, qui de natura et modestia transferunt, et acie figere et digito destinare et nutu tradere merito sit. Prorsus, si quis Menandrico fluxu delicatam uestem humi protrahat, audiat penes se quod et comicus: Qualem demens iste chlamydem disperdit? Enimuero iamdudum censoriae intentionis episcynio disperso, quantum denotatui passiuitas offert? Libertinos in equestribus, subuerbustos in liberalibus, dediticios in ingenuis, rupices in urbanis, scurras in forensibus, paganos in militaribus: uespillo, leno, lanista tecum uestiuntur.

[9] Conuerte et ad feminas. Habes spectare, quod Caecina Seuerus grauiter senatui impressit, matronas sine stola in publico. Denique, Lentuli auguris consultis, quae ita sese exauctorasset, pro stupro erat poena; quoniam quidem indices custodesque dignitatis habitus, ut lenocinii factitandi impedimenta, sedulo quaedam desuefecerant. At nunc in semetipsas lenocinando, quo planius adeantur, et stolam et supparum et crepidulum et caliendrum, ipsas quoque iam lecticas et sellas, quis in publico quoque domestice ac secrete habebantur, eierauere. Sed alius extinguit sua lumina, alius non sua accendit. Aspice lupas, popularium libidinum nundinas, ipsas quoque frictrices, et si praestat oculos abducere ab eiusmodi propudiis occisae in publico castitatis, aspice tamen uel sublimis, iam matronas uidebis.

[10] Et cum latrinarum antistes sericum uentilat et immundiorem loco ceruicem monilibus consolatur et armillas, quas ex uirorum fortium donis ipsae quoque matronae temere usurpassent, omnium pudendorum conscias manus inserit, impuro cruri purum aut mulleolum inducit calceum, cur istos non spectas uel illos item habitus, qui nouitatis uestitu religionem mentiuntur? Cum ob cultum omnia candidatum et ob notam uittae et priuilegium galeri Cereri initiantur; cum ob diuersam affectionem tenebricae uestis et tetrici super caput uelleris in Bellonae montes fugantur; cum latioris purpurae ambitio et Galatici ruboris superiectio Saturnum commendat. Cum ipsum hoc pallium morosius ordinatum et crepidae Graecatim Aesculapio adulantur, quanto tunc magis arguas illud et urgeas oculis, et iam simplicis et inaffectatae, tamen superstitionis reum? Enimuero cum hanc primum sapientiam uestit, quae uanissimis superstitionibus renuit, tunc certissime pallium super omnes exuuias et peplos augusta uestis superque omnes apices et titulos sacerdos suggestus. Deduc oculos, suadeo, reuerere habitum, unius interim erroris tui renuntiatorem.